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Cantonese
cuisine
(粵菜,
pinyin: Yuecai) originates from the region around Canton in
southern China's Guangdong province.
There is a Cantonese saying:
"We eat everything on the ground with four legs except
tables and chairs. We eat everything in the sky except
airplanes." Cantonese cuisine includes almost all edible
food in addition to the staples of pork, beef and chicken --
snakes, snails, insects, worms, chicken feet, duck tongues, ox
genitals, and entrails. A subject of controversy amongst
Westerners, dogs are raised as food in some places in China,
though this is not a common food one finds in restaurants, and
is illegal in Hong Kong and will soon be in Taiwan.
Despite the countless
Cantonese cooking methods, steaming, stir frying and deep
frying are the most popular cooking methods in restaurants due
to the short cooking time, and philosophy of bringing out the
flavor of the freshest ingredients.
Guangdong cooking is one of
China's four major regional styles and, despite northern
critics decrying it as too uncomplicated to warrant the term
"cuisine", it's unmatched in the clarity of its
flavours, the attention paid to the ingredients' natural
characteristics, and its appealing presentation. The style
itself can be subdivided into Cantonese , emanating from the
Pearl River Delta region; Chaozhou , from the city of the same
name in the far east of Guangdong; and Hakka , from the
northeastern border with Fujian, named after the Han subgroup
with whom it originated. Though certain Chaozhou and Hakka
recipes have been incorporated into the main body of Guangdong
cooking - sweet and sour pork with fruit, and salt-baked
chicken, for instance - it's Cantonese food which has come to
epitomize its principles. With many Chinese emigrants leaving
through Guangzhou, it's also the most familiar to overseas
visitors, though peruse a menu here and you'll soon realize
that most dishes served abroad as "Cantonese" would
be unrecognizable to a local resident.
Spoiled by good soil and a
year-round growing season, the Cantonese always demand
absolutely fresh ingredients . To prove the quality of their
product, restaurants keep their ingredients alive and kicking
in cages, tanks or buckets at the front of the restaurant for
diners to select themselves. Westerners can be repulsed by the
collection of wildlife outside some Guangdong establishments,
and even other Chinese comment that the Cantonese will eat
anything with legs that isn't a piece of furniture, and
anything with wings that isn't an aeroplane. The cooking
itself concentrates on the natural aspects of the food,
designed to keep textures distinct and flavours as close to
the original as possible, using a minimum amount of mild and
complimentary seasonings to prevent dishes from being bland.
Fast stir-frying in a wok is the best known of these
procedures, but roasting , and slow-simmering in soy sauce and
wine are other methods of teasing out the essential
characteristics of the food.
No full meal is really
complete without a simple plate of rich green and slightly
bitter choisam , Chinese broccoli, blanched and lightly
dressed with oyster sauce. Also famous is fish and seafood ,
often simply steamed with ginger and spring onions, and nobody
cooks fowl better than the Cantonese, always juicy and
flavoursome whether served crisp-skinned and roasted or
fragrantly casseroled. Guangzhou's citizens are also
compulsive snackers, and outside canteens you'll see roast
meats, such as strips of cha shao pork, waiting to be
cut up and served with rice for a light lunch, or burners
stacked with claypots , a one-person dish of steamed rice
typically served in the cooking vessel with vegetables and
slices of sweet lap cheung sausage. Cake shops selling
heavy Chinese pastries and filled buns are found everywhere
across the region. Some items like custard tartlets are
derived from foreign sources, while roast pork buns and
flaky-skinned mooncakes stuffed with sweet lotus seed paste
are of domestic origin.
Perhaps it's this delight in
little delicacies that led to the tradition of dim sum
("snacks"; dian xin in Mandarin) really
blossoming in Guangdong, were it has become an elaborate form
of breakfast most popular on Sundays, when entire households
pack out restaurants. Also known as yum cha - literally,
"with tea" - little dishes of fried, boiled and
steamed snacks are packed inside bamboo steamers or displayed
on plates, then wheeled around the restaurant on trolleys,
which you stop for inspection as they pass your table. On
being seated you're given a pot of tea which is constantly
topped up, and a card which is marked for each dish you select
and later surrendered to the cashier. Try rice porridge juk,
spring rolls, buns, cakes and plates of thinly sliced roast
meats, and small servings of restaurant dishes like spareribs,
stuffed capsicum, or squid with black beans. Save most room,
however, for the myriad types of little fried and steamed
dumplings which are the hallmark of a dim sum meal,
such as har gau, juicy minced prawns wrapped in
transparent rice-flour skins, and shao mai, a generic
name for a host of delicately flavoured, open-topped packets.
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eating
in Guangzhou
Guangzhou is universally
known for its excellent food. Cantonese cuisine is one of the
Famous Eight in China with different flavors and styles, by
using diverse and delicate materials, exotic spices and
various cooking skills. Cantonese cuisine, as epitome of
Chinese food culture, is a mixture of tradition and modern,
east and west. Basically, it is also a combination of local
dishes from the different prefectures of Guangdong Province,
or even from other provinces and abroad. Cantonese dishes are
often characterized with various unusual ingredients and
materials. Apart from seafood, animals, insects and worms,
flowers and weeds are all made into dishes. There is a variety
of Cantonese dim sum, sweet or salty. The delicious
Cantonese-style dim sum served with tea offers a fresh flavor
in leisure time. It is estimated that there are over 1000 ways
of making desserts in Guangzhou. Most locals are gourmets and
love varieties. Scattered all over the city there are over 5
000 restaurants, teahouses and snack eateries, offering
service around the clock.
"It is not always
possible to translate Chinese menus because many of the
ingredients are either unknown or unmentionable to Western
barbarians", a British magazine once commented on the
Chinese dishes. If you want to enjoy authentic Cantonese
dishes, you may visit any of the following traditional
long-standing local restaurants (Laozihao in Chinese). They
are popular for different sorts of Guangzhou dishes, which
represent, probably, the essence of Cantonese cuisine:
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Panxi Restaurant at 151#,
Western Longjing Lu
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Beiyuan Restaurant at
202#, Xiaobei Lu
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Lianxiang Lou at 67#,
Dishipu Jie
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Taotao House at 20#,
Dishipu Jie.
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Guangzhou Restaurant at
2#, South Wenchang Lu
-
Nanguo Restaurant at 899#,
North Jiefang Lu
-
Datong Restaurant at 63#,
Western Yanjiang Lu
A recent survey shows that
there are now fewer than 50 famous old brand names with a
history of over 50 years left in Guangzhou. The Laozihao
constitute a crucial part of the city's unique history and
Lingnan culture of the over 2200-year-old city. As part of the
rescuing and protecting program of the city's historic and
cultural relics, the municipal government of Guangzhou has
certificated a first round of 27 "Laozihao" (Old
Brand Names), in order to preserve the city's historic
well-known brand names, buildings and trademarks. In this
program, the "Laozihao" are seen as an integral part
of the city's cultural heritage. The special craftsmanship and
recipes, the brands and trademarks should be taken as valuable
invisible assets.
The Cantonese also have a custom of drinking tea with dim sum
in their leisure time or at business meetings. The tea
drinking tradition can be traced back a hundred years to the
Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). In those days, the Cantonese used to
go to a nearby teahouse, like the popular "Two-Cent
Teahouse", where they needed to pay only two cents for a
pot of tea and some simple snacks. The customers were mostly
temporary laborers who couldn't afford anything more
expensive. By the later Qing period, teahouses in the true
sense had emerged in Guangzhou. These were more expensive
places offering much better tea with a variety of delicacies.
The teahouse had become the best retreat for the professionals
and businessmen as well as the ordinary people.
The Cantonese came to the
teahouse for different reasons. The real tea-drinkers, for
instance, preferred to kill time with one pot of fragrantly
hot tea and two plates of snacks. Businessmen came here to
exchange information as well as to enjoy life a little bit
over a cup of tea with some snacks in the old days. But
thousands of ordinary urbanites would rush to the teahouse in
the early morning for a moment of relaxation before starting
the daily routine work. Most would like to go to the same
teahouse as usual, where they would take the same seat to meet
with their friends and fellows, inform each other of community
gossips, or just have small talk among themselves. Sometimes,
they simply talked of the hard life they endured. With time
passing by, teahouses have prospered ever since they appeared
in Guangzhou. Drinking tea has become an inseparable part of
the local life. Nowadays, life here starts with the morning
tea for many Guangzhou urbanites. So, if you are staying in
Guangzhou and want to know about the local customs, better
join the Cantonese in their passion for morning tea. In the
midst of the crowds of Cantonese teahouse goers, you may get a
better idea of what life is like in Guangzhou.
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